Exfoliation 101

Many of us may have tried harsh, gritty exfoliators that have left our faces feeling raw and looking red. But exfoliators have come a long way in the past ten years. K-beauty exfoliation formulas offer not only the smoothing, skin clearing benefits of scrubs, but also often contain a host of other beneficial ingredients. Best of all, there are now many options that suit all sorts of different skin types.

But how often should you exfoliate? What type of exfoliator should you use? Are chemical peels safe? What kind of exfoliator helps with hyper-pigmentation? What if you have oily skin? We’re here to go over some of the basics and help you decide what kind of exfoliator will work best for you.

Physical Exfoliators

A physical exfoliator is quite literally a scrub with physical material in it that sloughs off dirt and dead skin. It often leaves skin feeling fresh and smooth, and gives it that “glowy” look we love. Physical exfoliants used to be made from gritty materials. Ground walnut and almond shells were popular, but were found to be too harsh and sharp, leaving micro-scratches on the skin. Later, micro-beads were invented, but let’s face it - there isn’t anything natural about rubbing plastic balls on our skin, and they turned out to be an environmental disaster (and are now largely banned). There are now many more natural types of materials for exfoliating: coffee grounds, volcanic scoria, charcoal, salts, and sugars are popular.

It’s important to be careful with physical exfoliants and test them slowly. Don’t scrub too vigorously, and start by exfoliating just once or twice a week to gauge your skin’s reaction. How much your skin reacts largely depends on your skin type, and how sensitive it is. If you find the formula you are using feels too harsh, you can move to something containing sugar or salt as exfoliators - these allow you to control the roughness of the scrub. Mix with water or a watery toner to cause the scrub to dissolve more, making it gentler. Tiam’s Anti-Pollution Salt Facial Scrub is a good example of a salt scrub. For those with extremely sensitive skin, an exfoliating pad made of cotton or a konjac sponge may be enough to give your skin a gentle buff.

“Acid School”: Chemical Exfoliators

Chemical scrubs (sometimes called chemical peels) are made with acids that encourage cell turnover and help remove dead cells and debris from the skin’s surface. Korean acid exfoliators are usually obtained from natural ingredients like milk and papaya. Before you start worrying about the word “acid”, you may be surprised to know that these are quite gentle, effective, and gaining more and more popularity. Unlike physical exfoliators, there is no chance of “over-scrubbing”, and different acids can address different issues and levels of sensitivity.

Here are the three main types of acids:

• AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids. These buff off the top layer of dead skin, making those cells easier to sweep and wash away. AHAs are best used for people dealing with sun damage (such as hyper-pigmentation), uneven skin texture/tone, or people who want anti-aging benefits. The strongest of the AHAs is glycolic acid, followed by lactic and mandelic acid. AHA is also a humectant, and has hydrating properties. Cosrx AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid is a popular choice, or try Wish Formula’s C200 Bubble Peeling Pad for effective and convenient exfoliation.
• BHAs, or beta hydroxy acids. BHAs are good for people with oily skin, or who may have problems with acne, blackheads, clogged pores, enlarged pores, and roughness. The most common BHA is salicylic acid, which has long been used to help with breakouts and excess sebum. BHAs can seep through oil-clogged pores better than water-soluble formulas, dissolving the dirt inside, leaving skin clearer and pores less visible. They also have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Cosrx’s BHA Blackhead Power Liquid is a favorite.
• PHAs, or polyhydroxy acids. These are the newest generation of acids, and are rapidly appearing in many Korean skincare products. Galactose, lactobionic acid, and gluconic acid (or gluconolactone) are examples of PHAs. If you find you have sensitivities to AHAs or BHAs, PHAs are a great choice, as they are the gentlest of the three acids. With mild peeling properties that gently resurface the upper layers of skin, PHAs are good for people who want anti-inflammatory benefits, or whose skin is too sensitive for physical and other chemical exfoliants. Cosrx’s Low pH PHA Mist can be used as a toner, followed by Cosrx PHA Cream, or Swanicoco’s PHA Cream.

Exfoliating Pads

Exfoliating pads are the newest trend in exfoliation, prized for their convenience. They contain the best of both worlds: some may have a rougher side and smoother side so you can regulate how much physical exfoliation you want, and the pads are often drenched in formulas containing chemical acids (like PHAs). Pads like Whamisa’s Organic Flowers Peeling Finger Mitts have added ingredients to treat different skin issues. Their Pore Care formula contains betaine salicylate, soothing oat extracts, barley, and sodium hyaluronate. The Sebum Care formula uses fruit acids to cleanse, and apple/raspberry ferment filtrates to nourish. Lastly, the Moisture Care version contains aloe leaf, chrysanthemum, and sodium hyaluronate for maximum hydration.

One last, but important instruction: Make sure you use sunscreen after using any sort of exfoliant. Exfoliants clear off the rough top layer of skin, but can also make it vulnerable to UV rays.